The Diary of
Frederick William Hurst
Saturday, October 24th. This morning we made our final start for Los Angeles. We number 25 souls. Brother Wandell's Company expect to start in about one week. Sister Lunceford traded off one of her colts and $300.00 for one span of mules. Our course is about South. The road being over the Salinas Plains. We camped within 1 1/2 miles of Saledo, close by the River. No feed, but plenty of wood. Paid 3 for hay.
Friday, October 25th. Our road has been very rough all day, in fact, some places all hands had to assist. We traveled about 28 or 30 miles. Camped in the _______ Pass. Food scanty and very poor water. After prayers Brother Boyle spoke his feelings as follows:
"Brethren and Sisters, when our Chaplain calls us to prayer let us attend. Whatever we may be doing, whether it be frying meat even, let us attend to our duties. In all my experience, when I was in the Mormon Battalion, those who attended prayers were always prospered. And I can tell you, Brethren and Sisters, that those men are strong in the faith to the present day. Again I want to see everything done in order. When we are traveling on the road let the wagons keep together. Do not cherish hard feelings. If we will do these things I know the Lord will bless us."
Monday, October 26th. Had some trouble starting this morning. I am sorry to say there was some little confusion. What a pity it is that we L. D. S. get out of harmony with each other. For my part I see the necessity of governing myself well. We had not traveled far before we came to a hill, long and steep. Had to hitch on a couple of span of horses to each wagon besides all hands to push behind, block the wheels, etc. This detained us so that we did not travel more than 15 or 18 miles. Brother Boyle shot a fine deer at a distance of 190 yards. We have seen plenty of grizzley bear tracks, and deer all along the road. We have camped near the bed of what has been a large river. Grass a little more plentiful. Had to dig for water. Plenty of wood. Held meeting in the evening.
Tuesday, October 27th. As we started this morning one of the horses reared and charged around and broke the tongue of Mother Lunceford's light wagon. Were detained about an hour longer splicing on a new one. Some of the brethren went on ahead hunting. Shot a fine deer and saw no end of grizzley tracks. We had to travel over hills, some of them very steep. We camped for about two hours at noon in a very pleasant place. Plenty of grass and water. We traveled 5 or 6 miles after dark, or rather by moonlight. Found excellent grass, wood and water. All seemed to rejoice. I really feel grateful for I realize that the hand of the Lord is over us for good.
Wednesday, October 28th. Traveled full 25 miles. Considerably sandy road. In the afternoon we bathed in a warm sulphur spring. Camped near an old Spanish Ranch. Water rather scarce. Wood and grass plenty.
October 29th. Took the horses out early this morning to feed. Passed by an old Spanish Fort. We found an old Indian, only all the intelligence we could get from him was no intend, etc. Arrived in
San Luis Obispo
before sundown. Had quite a feast of prickly pears. Paid 2¢ per lb. for hay and barley. Mother sold one of her little mare colts for $10.00. It was with great difficulty that it kept up with the wagons as it was so lame. Friday I made a new tongue for Mother's carriage. I had to pay one dollar for a pole. We laid in over 400 lbs. of barley. Got the mules shod, also one of the horses, $1.00 per shoe.
Started after dinner and traveled 12 miles. Camped within one mile of the seashore. Grass scanty, plenty of wood and water. Found plenty of clams and boiled some for supper. Held meeting in the evening. Some of the Brethren and Sisters had feelings against Brother Thatcher. However, Brother N. Carlow made a motion that all that was past should be forgotten. It was carried unanimously.
Saturday, October 31st. The road lay along the sea beach 12 miles. We started early but had to put back on account of the high tide. While waiting for the tide to go down the following persons renewed their covenants: Marion Outhouse, Emaline Lunceford, Sarah Lunceford. And the following for the first time: Nathaniel Carlow, Siritta Lunceford, Caroline Carlow, Michael Wahlan.
After noon we traveled 15 miles, 12 miles along the seashore. The last five miles was over very heavy sand. In the evening we held a Confirmation Meeting.
Sunday, November 1st. Traveled about 25 miles. We are beginning to get into very mountainous country. We camped in a very pleasant place. Plenty of grass, near what is called the All-Saints Ranch. Held prayer meeting around the campfire.
Monday, November 2nd. Traveled 25 miles. Some of the brethren think near 30 miles. The road has been exceedingly rough. It was dark when we reached camp. No grass, very little wood, plenty of water.
Tuesday, November 3rd. Road has been rougher than ever. We passed through the Gaviota Pass, Rocky Canyon, etc. Mother's light wagon broke down, one of the hind wheels smashed to atoms. We tied a pole under the box and dragged the wagon into camp. However, it was thought best by all hands to leave and pack the load into the other wagon. Accordingly, next morning, Wednesday November 4th, we all went to work. Took the brake off the old wagon and put it on the new. Also rigged a strengthening tongue. About noon we rolled out. Traveled 16 miles over exceedingly rough roads close by the seashore. Camped in a small ravine, grass scarce, good water. Some of the boys shot some geese. The wind blows very high.
Thursday, November 5th. After traveling 24 miles we arrived at Santa Barbara at about sunset. This is quite a large town. Mostly Spanish. We have had quite a shower of rain this evening. Bought hay at 1 1/2¢ per pound and barley at 2 1/2¢. Still very windy.
Friday, November 6th. Had some blacksmithing done. Brother Carlow and I fixed a pair of springs on the light wagon. In the afternoon we traveled 16 miles. Camped by a small stream of good water, but the place is entirely destitute of grass. The wind blows a perfect hurricane.
Saturday, November 7th. Traveled 25 miles, mostly along by the seashore. Passed through San Buena Vistura. Some of us went to see the Catholic Cathedral. It was pretty tolerably furnished with images of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, etc.
Grass Scarce. We held meeting in the evening. Captain Boyle counseled us not to let the people in Los Angeles know what we are, and evasively answer questions which are continually being put to us. He also added those who wished to purchase goods at Los Angeles to make a list in order to push on to San Bernardino as fast as possible. "For," said he, "we know not what is in the future. We may have to make a forced march through the Tahoan (Cajone) pass.
Sunday, November 8th. Traveled 25 miles. Camped on a perfect desert. Not a blade of grass, nor indeed any description of vegetation.
I was very sick all last night, and today I feel as if I had been poisoned. I have suffered dreadfully from griping pains. I thought it best to fast all day. I feel that it has done me good already.
Monday, November 9th. Had good roads all day, traveled 30 miles. Camped near a Spanish Ranch. Bought cornfodder for the horses. A number of us went down to the ranch and spent the evening very agreeably. Had grapes. Two young Spanish ladies and their brother could talk English very well. They seemed to be quite clever folks.
Next day, Tuesday, traveled 24 miles. Camped within two miles of Los Angeles. About 3 o'clock p.m. at Mother Lunceford's request, Brother N. Carlow and I searched all over town for a wagon to price them as she wanted to buy one. Found several from $200.00 to $225.00.
Next day, Wednesday. Sister Lunceford bought one wagon for $225.00. Harness $40.00, etc. I bought off of Brother Mendenarf one revolver # 52034 for $25.00, also one keg of powder weighing 12 1/2 lbs. at $6.50 cwt., also 11 1/2 lbs. lead at $2.00. I did want to buy a pair of shoes but I thought I would get all the ammunition I could. I wish all the Saints would do the same. Next morning early we caused quite an excitement by driving through the city. Breakfasted at Monte, a very small town from Los Angeles. It was after nine o'clock when we camped.
Next day, Friday, November 13th. We arrived in San Bernardino before sundown. Clem and I stayed all night at Brother James McKnight's. They were glad to see us. Found Brother and Sister Johnson living with them. Next morning we went over to Brother Rall's where the Lunceford's were camped. Said they intended to stay till Spring and Clem and I and Brother Barnes were at liberty to look out for another chance to go to Salt Lake. We accordingly took our things down to Father Haliday's old house where Brothers N. Carlow and George F. Hendry were stopping. The Old Gentleman gave them plenty of hay, squash, etc.
Next morning I accompanied Brother Hendry to Sister Lunceford's to get a pair of Harness he lent her. As he had no means to buy provisions he thought he would trade them off, for harnesses of any description were in great demand, for all true hearted Mormons are fixing up to be off and flee to the Mountains. However, when we got there, Sister Lunceford said that George had given the harness to her. Now I can bear witness that he did not, for I myself borrowed them for Mother Lunceford. Again, Brother Hendry had hauled upward of 400 lbs. all the way from Eldorado to Los Angeles free of charge, and then to expect he would give them the set of harness. To say the least of it I think it is a dirty mean trick on the part of Sister Lunceford, for they have plenty of means not only to help themselves, but also to help others. Time will tell how such folks will stand. Brother Hendry was quite disgusted and went off and they kept the harness. If it had been me I know I would have taken them. Next day she sent $2.50 to Brother Hendry, telling him she wanted to do what was right to everybody, and she did not want him to feel bad. That disgusted me more than ever, however, the Lord always provides.
Brother Warren, Church Historian in San Bernardino, told George he wanted to send a stove to Utah, and he would give him 25¢ per lb. for hauling it, etc. Paid him in flour and items from the store such as butter, beans, etc. Brother Hendry told me I could go through with him if I paid my own provisions. Accordingly I went over to Brother Thomas Hendry and asked him for some flour as he had plenty, however, he said he had spent all of his money. Certainly he said, his wife, lately Alice Royle, had plenty of money but did not want to part with it. However, Brother McKnight gave me as much cornmeal as I liked to take, and I gave Brother Hendry an overshirt, socks, etc. Clem engaged to drive team through for Brother Surrey's. Brother Barnes is gone on with Brother Ralls. I got my things from Brother Ball, also a letter and the Standard. I gave Brother Shearman the $20.00 I borrowed from Brother Cannon. I wrote to Brother Ball, also to Brother Abbott in answer to a letter I received from him about the horse before spoken of.
Friday. We rolled out alone. Clem expects to start on Monday next. The road is very sandy and rocky. We camped near the mouth of the narrows after dark. About 3 o'clock next morning a large wolf came prowling around the wagon and scared the horses. I drew my revolver to fire but thought I would first wake Brother Hendry, but he got so excited he scared the animal away. We had breakfast over and the horses hitched by daylight.
Drove on about half a mile and found Father Cram's train, three wagons. We drove on to the last water, fed the horses again, by that time Father Cram's train caught up to us and we all drove on together. This certainly is the hardest road I have traveled yet. We arrived at the pass about 3 o'clock p.m. It took us till long after dark before we got all of the wagons over. It seemed impossible for the horses to pull an empty wagon up it is so steep, however, by eight o'clock we reached camp. Lucky for us we found snow on the mountain for the animals would have had to go without water.
Monday. We rolled on down to the Mojave. Before reaching it, however, one of Father Cram's mules gave out. Found 3 wagons camped. Also met with Brothers Keeler and Owens. Here we found plenty of wood, water, grass, etc.
Wednesday, November 25th. We have been waiting here for more strength. Brother Wandeel's Company camped about 300 yards above us night before last. All well. 14 wagons. Last night we had a good meeting. I have been suffering from a severe cold, cough, etc., the last few days.
Thursday, November 26th. Spent the day very agreeably visiting around the various camps. Bye the bye, Mother Lunceford arrived last night. Some of the Sisters practiced shooting with revolvers. Sister Menda Cram and Sister Whitlock proved the best shots. Met with Brothers Silas Smith, Joseph Smith, Joseph E. Pack, Edward
Partridge, they are going along with Brother Wandell's Company. All in good health. I was truly glad to see them. Brother Silas showed me a translation of the revelation on polygamy in the Hawaiian language, translated by himself. We had quite a social chat together in Hawaiian.
Friday, November 27th, Mojave. Traveled 20 miles down the river. The two Miss Whitlocks accompanied us about two miles where we got some wild grapes. There is scarcely any feed where we have camped. Wood and water plenty. The wind blows almost a hurricane, in fact it has done these last 3 or 4 days. There has also been several very heavy showers of rain which makes everything around camp unpleasant.
We held meeting this evening. Brother H. G. Boyle, who is here on business, presided over the meeting. He thought it was best to organize before we proceeded farther, though we only number 26 souls; 14 ablebodied men, the rest women and children, 7 wagons, 31 horses and mules. Father Cram was voted in Captain, F. W. Hurst - Chaplain, clerk, etc., Brother Bramar Cram - Sergeant of the Guard. Brother Boyle counseled us to keep united, to assist each other, the wagons to keep close together, etc. He prophesied if we will do right, nothing shall befall either animals or ourselves, but the Lord will bless us.
Saturday, November 28th. Traveled 20 miles. Plenty of grass, wood and water.
Sunday. Stayed in camp all day. Quite a number of us practiced with our revolvers. I had a good bath this afternoon. Brother Boyle and Mr. John Cram rode down to the lower crossing. Found Captain W. B. Presto's Company on the eve of starting out over the desert. they wanted to wait for us but Brother Boyle counseled them to roll out. The Salt Lake mail arrived about 11 o'clock p.m. but they were so close that we got very little information except through the medium of the Deseret News.
Monday, November 30th. Traveled 20 miles to the lower crossing. Feed and wood scarce. We laid in camp till Wednesday, December 2nd, when we moved out across the first desert. We traveled about 20 miles, then camped two hours, then resumed our journey and traveled to the bitter springs. I walked all of the way on foot, 40 miles. The poor animals were very much goaded for the most part of the road has been very heavy sand and rocks. The water here is very bad. We camped about 10:00 a.m. and after breakfast on Thursday we rolled out again until evening. Then camped till moon rise, about 8:00, then pushed on. The road dreadful rocky. We reached the salt springs just after sunrise. We, animals and all were completely tired out. As soon as breakfast was over most of us turned into bed.
We have been blessed with very cool and cloudy weather. I feel thankful to our Heavenly Father for his watch care over us for indeed both us and animals have been greatly blessed so far. This second desert is 50 miles across. Certainly as the Book of Mormon declares, the face of the land is defaced. I often think, as I am traveling along, of the might revolutions that have taken place on this continent. Oh! How I long to see the day when the earth will be renewed and glorified.
Well, on Saturday morning, December 5th, we pursued our journey. The road seems to get worse and worse. It has been so sandy it was with difficulty that the animals got along. We followed Saleratus Creek for some 10 miles. Camped till midnight, then pushed on, but the animals were so tired that they stalled in several places. However, after traveling 3 or 4 miles we found fresh water. We camped until about noon.
Sunday, December 6th. In the evening we held meeting. Just before we dismissed a violent storm of wind arose and blew down two tents. Came so suddenly and powerful it almost blew the wagons over. There is plenty of grass and water. Monday we drove on to the Resting Springs. Lay in camp till Wednesday. Drove on till near midnight. Camped at Stump Springs. There are quite a number of wagons ahead. The weather is extremely cold mornings and evenings. I feel thankful that it is no worse.
Drove on to Cottonwood Springs. Found 14 wagons camped. I did not like the spirit they manifest. I tried to get up a meeting. They said there was none to take the lead. I inquired, "Have you no Chaplain?"
"No!"
"Well! don't you hold meeting sometime, and have prayer morning and evening?"
They answered, "No."
"Well," said I, "have you no captain?"
I told them we held meetings, had prayers, and the Lord had and was still blessing us. I spent the evening with Brother and Sister Hyatt.
Next day, Saturday, we drove on to the boiling or Sandy Springs. Here we saw the first Indians. They were very friendly. We had to feed about a dozen of them. Next morning some few of us had a bath in the Springs. Strange to relate we could not sink. Stayed in as long as we dared, then walked to Las Vegas. Camped in the fort.
Threatened rain all day. Held meeting in the afternoon. Brother Hamlin, Indian Missionary addressed the meeting, followed by Brother Crisman and myself. They left Brother Tanner's Company and joined ours. We numbered 9 wagons now.
Monday, December 13th. We rolled out on to the desert and arrived at the Muddy at about 3:00 p.m. December 14, the animals tired out. Here we are almost worried to death with the Indians. We have to give, give all the time. Some of them danced in the evening. Here we met Brother Letson and Brother Collins, missionaries. Both well and rejoiced to see us. Spent the evening very agreeably singing.
Wednesday, December 15th. We lay in camp all day. Captain Tanner's train, 12 wagons, arrived about 4 o'clock p.m. In the evening we held meeting around the campfire. Quite a number of the Brethren spoke their feelings. Next day we pushed on to the Rio Virgin where we arrived late at night. One of Mother Lunceford's wagons broke down near the top of the hill. Mother Cram had a fall which nearly proved fatal. She is not able to use her left arm. I believe her collarbone is broken.
Friday, December 17th. Fixed up a new axel for Mrs. Lunceford's wagon. The train started on ahead. We did not reach camp until after dark.
Saturday, December 18th. Traveled about 4 miles and had to camp on account of Brother Hendry's horses gave out, (they got alkalized) accordingly, we agreed to leave the wagon, Isaac (an Indian Chief) in charge till we could get to Santa Clara and get horses treated and then return and get the wagon, probably in 3 or 4 weeks.
Next day we traveled on but the animals were weary. The road is very sandy and heavy, however, meeting with sundry adventures with the Indians and other things, we arrived on the
Santa Clara [in the southwest corner of Utah] on the 23rd of December, where we found Brother Amasa Lyman, one of the Twelve, with about 30 wagons. He had 18 wagons to assist the emigrants.
Shortly after we arrived Brother Lyman called a meeting and addressed us at some length giving us some excellent instructions relative to the Indians, etc.
On Christmas day Father Cram's family walked down to the fort on the Santa Clara. Mother Lunceford started for Cedar City. Sister Hyatt offered me a chance to get as far as
Parowan City [about 75 miles into Utah].
Brother Hendry felt real bad about it but I was counseled so I embraced the opportunity.
Accordingly we started on the 16th and arrived in Parowan on the 30th. I drove a buggy all the way. We stayed at Pinto Creek, five miles the other side. We met Brother John Hyatt with a four horse team to assist his mother in. Got to Cedar City and stayed at Bishop Smith's. Here I saw Brothers Shearman and Barnes.
* footnote 10:
San Luis Obispo: about halfway between San Francisco
and Los Angeles and about 8 miles from the coast