With a knitting needle (or a crochet hook, which I prefer), pass under the rightmost string and lift it up onto the shaft. Pass the crochet hook over the next strand.

Dip past that second string to find the next low-slung strand and lift it onto the shaft. Then guide the needle over the next upper string.

(NOTE: The directions given are for right-handed weavers. If the left-handed weaver set up the sprang in reverse, as suggested on the Warping page, he or she must switch right for left, and left for right, in the directions on this page. Use a mirror to look at the illustrations!)

Continue across in this manner, by turns lifting the low strings onto the shaft and guiding the needle over the upper strings, weaving your needle up and down. When you're done, all the lower strings will be uppers, and all the upper strings will be lowers. You will have created a new shed between the layers of warp threads -- which are now reversed from their original positions of upper and lower.

Insert another needle through this shed. This is most easily done by sliding the tip of the new needle along the shaft of the first so it doesn't snag any strands.

If you're using a crochet hook like I do, you need to insert two knitting needles instead of one, and reserve the crochet hook for working your next row. I slide one needle along the far side of the crochet hook and one along the near side.

Now separate the two needles, pushing the far one towards the far beam and the near one towards the near beam. Now you're ready for the real twining process.

(This is the only time you do Row A.)

Slide your left hand into the shed from the left. Your left fingertips will manage the dropping off of the upper threads.

With the knitting needle or crochet hook in your right hand, lift up the first two bottom strands and slide them onto the shaft.

Drop the first upper strand and guide the crochet hook over it to hook the next bottom strand.

Only on the first snag do you grab two at once. After that, it's just like in Row A, lifting a bottom thread and gliding over a top thread, alternating back and forth until you get to the end -- when there are two remaining top threads to drop.

Insert two knitting needles into the shed and work them towards the far beam and the near beam. The previous needles may have shifted out of position meanwhile. Just move them back into place, and beat the new needles as close to them as they will go.

Beat is a weaver's term for jamming a new strand of weft close to the previous one. Sprang has no weft, but the twists in warp on the most recent needle still need to be jammed close to those held on the previous needle.

Again slide your left hand into the shed to manage the upper threads. With the crochet hook, lift the first bottom strand. Notice that in Row B you pick up two right at the first, but in Row C you only pick up one.

Continue as in previous rows, alternating between lifting bottom threads and dropping top ones. This row will end with only one top thread remaining to drop to the bottom.

(This row resembles Row A, but isn't quite the same. Here you need to reach under two top threads to find the next bottom thread to hook and draw up.)

Insert two knitting needles into the shed, and separate them as before.

When you finish beating a row, whether Row B or C, and there is only about one inch of space between the near needle and the far one (shown here by a green arrow), you are ready for the final steps. Up until the end, the sprang netting has been formed from warp strands alone. Now you will need some weft strands to anchor the twining in the middle and prevent unravelling.